Alps by motorcycle 2023 II - part 2, towards Mediterranean

Alps by motorcycle 2023 II – part 2, towards Mediterranean

Previous part: Alps by motorcycle 2023 II – part 1, Route Des Grandes Alpes

Next part: Alps by motorcycle 2023 II – part 3, back to the North

Sunday

Starting from Grand-Bornand I was heading for some serious high mountain riding. On this day I had planed three passes, each higher than the previous one.

The first one, Col des Saisies (1,657 m), came as a little of surprise. The pass itself was just a point on the road in the middle of a ski resort with lots of tourists, cars and Police directing traffic.

Cormet de Roselend (1,968 m), on the other hand, was much closer to what one could expect from a pass nearly two kilometers above sea level. Less trees, more rocks and more views to enjoy. Adding to these views is Lake Roseland, a reservoir created by Roseland Dam, with it’s clear, turquoise water. A view straight from Caribbean.

Weather at Roseland wasn’t especially sunny, which made ma little nervous about Col de l’Iseran (2,764 m). But as I was getting closer, weather was getting better. In Val d’Isère, at the feet of norther ramp of the pass, the weather was warm and sunny. It was immediately obvious there was much less snow than month before. I was closing slowly, enjoying the ride and views. This might be a beautiful summer day, but this is still very narrow mountain road close to three kilometers above the sea. There are no barriers to protect from the fall, there are many blind turns, and you never know what is behind them – cyclist, motorbike, car or a pothole?

And there was the pass. There was no barrier closing the road, so the south ramp was open, meaning that the rockfall from June has been taken care of. That was a good news. That was what I came here for.

While the weather was sunny, the wind was strong, and the sun was burning. Well, actually the temperature was around 7C, but at this altitude sun is so strong, that using 50-factor sunscreen is necessary for exposed body parts – such as face and hands.

Contrary to what I’ve seen in Italy, in France there are usually no cafes nor restaurants at the passes. This makes them look more pristine, without shops spoiling the view, but it’s best to bring some food with and spend some time there enjoying views.

So, couple of photos, snack, and I was back on the bike.

The south ramp is easier, with longer straight sections, but of course there are plenty of corners too.

In the valley temperature reached 30C making ride less comfortable, but the views were still there.

This evening I found a hotel in Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne. I don’t know if this is Savoie cusine, or just coincidence, but that was second time in this area when I had absolutely fantastic dinner.

Monday below the gallery⬇️⬇️⬇️

Monday

Right after Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne I started climbing Col du Télégraphe (1,566 m). At the top I took a short walk to the Fort. When I was preparing to get on a bike, first drops of rain came and I decided to put on rain jacket and pants. I didn’t went too far when the rain stopped and I could take them off.

Next was a pretty serious pass, Col du Galibier (2,642 m). This is kind of road I like most, rocky with little greenery. Even better when there is snow, but in July 2023 there was almost none left.

South ramp of Col du Galibier becomes Col du Lautaret (2,058 m), which is a main road with significant traffic. It goes south east, towards Briançon. There I left this road and began climbing Col d’Izoard (2,360 m). That is my favorite of all French passes. The north ramp, especially. The fun factor is through the roof. There are long straight sections, there are fast curves, and there are hairpins.

After that much fun, next stop was planned to be Col de Vars (2,109 m), but actually I’ve found a little gem hidden between d’Izoard and Vars: Gorges du Guil. Beautiful road through a canyon cut by the river Guil, with many balconies and tunnels.

Finally, I found a hotel room in Barcelonnette, tourist town hosting skiers in the winter.

Tuesday below the gallery⬇️⬇️⬇️

Tuesday

My first goal for Tuesday was Col de la Bonette (2,715 m) and the nearby loop around Cime de la Bonette (2,860 m). That loop, at 2,802 m, is the highest paved road in Alps, and in the entire Europe. I’ve been here in 2018, but it was raining, foggy, and the loop itself was blocked by snow. It was late June.

This time, it was sunny, warm, the road was clean and visibility was great.

At the top of the loop there is a monument and some space to park the bike. The last 58 meters of elevation needs to be taken on foot. This is nearly three kilometers above sea level, so the air is thin, with less oxygen. So don’t run. And use sunscreen. But the view is worth it. Sitting on the Bonette, you feel like you were sitting on the top of the world. Everything, except the mountain ranges on the horizon, is below.

By the way, have you noticed somewhat odd blue tone of the sky in some pictures? My guess is, that this is caused by nearly three kilometers less of atmospheric haze. Three kilometers closer to the space!

East ramp offers great ride, with many corners, leading to the valley between mountain ranges. This valley is home to some ski resorts, such as Isola.

As I was now closer to the Mediterranean and in the valley, the temperature rose quickly. I consciously decided to not bring my summer motorcycle clothes as the one I was using was pretty lightweight anyway and I intended to spend most time in the mountains. But in this valley I began questioning that decision. Still, it would mean additional luggage on the airplane.

This is thing to keep in mind about high mountains – the range of temperatures is huge, from single digits C on the passes to 30+C in the valleys. And from freezing rain to burning sun. It is quite tricky to cover that with one set of gear, even if it is multi-layered, as mine is. And it often takes just an hour of two to experience this change of weather.

So I was continuing south-east thinking about my plans. I like to say that in the mountains, it is important to adapt to conditions, and not to pursue fixed plan.

After some hours I finally turned from the road in the valley towards next pass – Col Saint Martin (1,500 m). That one was unremarkable – just point on the road in the middle of a ski resort. The next one was Col de Turini (1,607 m). While the road was quite pretty and full of corners, the heat was taking it’s toll.

I stopped at that pass to verify my plans. I was barely 25 kilometers from the sea as the crow flies, so it would be nice to stay there for a night. But the increasing heat, and the fact that this section of road wasn’t especially interesting, cast some doubts. Should I pursue Mediterranean to put a flag on a map? Or should I turn back north, and have fun on higher roads? The final straw were the prices of accommodation by the sea in the middle of high season.

So I turned back and stopped for the night in Saint-Martin-Vésubie.